June Cameron's
26 feet to the Charlottes is a memoir in which life and writing
meet. In this easy-reading piece of non-fiction, Cameron chronicles
her adventures with her partner, Paul Holsinger, when they set out in
his sloop the Wood Duck in 1983 and travelled along the coast of the
Queen Charlotte Islands, now called the Haida Gwai. Most usefully, Cameron
supplies a map of the area with an insert map of the same area during
the time of her travels.
Cameron recounts
not only day-to-day details of travel and agenda but also aspects of
history, geography and west-coast Indian lore. We hear about weather
conditions, items of clothing (sun-bathing nude on the deck on one occasion,
191), and menu--ranging from salmon they had learned to smoke following
an First Nation practice (26-28) to homemade Swedish limpa bread made
by adding a boiled potato to the rye flour (196). On one occasion there
is a terrible accident in the refrigeration unit of their boat. Although
the usual practice had been to shut down the machine before clearing
a jam, crew member Bob Parton tried to clear it while it was still operating.
Cameron suggests their associate may have slipped, when his son-in-law,
Dave, heard an
awful scream when
the blade caught Bob and began dragging him into the auger. The
young man realized that by the time he struggled through two rooms packed
ceiling-high with heaps of ice and got to the control switch outside
the door, it would be far too late to save Bob, so he lunged toward
him and tried to pull him loose. (47)
In his heroic effort
to save his father-in-law, Dave lost an arm and was only saved from
losing his own life by Bob's body jamming the works. As on the occasions
during which their passage is threatened by high winds or their lack,
hostile natives and other physical impediments, this real-life accident
reminds us that tragedy finds its actual source in real life.
Cameron also discusses
geographical aspects of the land she and her partner travel alongside.
We learn how misguided logging practices led lumber companies to remove
all growth and replant one species of tree using herbicides to prevent
the regrowth of the natural homogeneous mixture of trees. The result
is a stark and denuded landscape subject to erosion and the destruction
of the rainforest. Only recently, Cameron remarks, have the Haida and
environmentalists lobbied against this opportunistic practice that,
after all, makes no long-term business sense in the logging industry.
Similarly, Cameron postulates reasons for the deserted mining towns
and fish canneries that have had to be shut down after an over-zealous
beginning with only short-term profits in view.
Cameron also highlights
historical events, for example, when she comes across Alexander Mackenzie's
simple notation on a rock at the entrance to Dean channel: "Alex Mackenzie
from Canada by land 22d July, 1793," and goes on to remind the reader
of the under-acknowledged figures in Canadians in history. Apparently,
Mackenzie had made the extremely difficult journey overland long before
any other explorer, and remarks how he showed fortitude at every turn.
Due to cloudy skies that made it impossible for him to use the sextant
that needs to be set by the stars, Mackenzie delayed at that location
for longer than he was welcome by the First Nations. Finally he was
rewarded with a clear night or his crew might have mutinied.
Luckily, the clouds
cleared away enough for him to determine that they had reached 128.2
degrees west of Greenwich. That done, he melted vermilion with melted
grease, wrote his message on a rock and set out with his men to retrace
their steps east. (69)
Whereas Mackenzie
put up with the Natives' coming on board and stealing what they thought
should be a gift to their people from a great man such as Mackenzie,
George Vancouver, called "Macubah" by the Natives, actually fired on
the Natives. This recounting of history leads Cameron's discussion of
Native lore and a discrepancy between the white man's worldview and
that of the Indian's.
One of the most
saddening tales about the clash of the white man and the Indian concerns
the chastisement of the Haida chief Koyah at the hands of the British
Captain Kendrick, who could not understand that appropriating property
was not necessarily stealing. Although his predecessor, Captain Gray,
had noticed this behaviour and had tactfully overlooked it for diplomatic
reasons as a fur-trader, Captain Kendrick took it in his own hands to
discipline the chief of the Haida:
When he saw the
chief, Koyah, and his companions helping themselves to things they fancied,
he assumed that they were common thieves and he reacted violently, punishing
them as he would have treated any crew member who disobeyed him. He
chopped off Koyah's hair, slapped paint on his face and jammed his legs
into the mouth of a cannon with the threat that he would blow him to
kingdom come unless his people behaved differently. (170)
Unfortunately,
this humiliation of their chief turned the Haida into fierce enemies
of the white man. And as Cameron reveals, even greater misunderstandings
and injustices have accumulated in history, ranging from the small pox
that nearly wiped out the Haida nation to taking away the language and
culture and pride of those original people.
Most interesting
is Cameron's careful delineation of aspects of Haida culture. Essentially
matriarchal, the husband would typically travel to his wife's family,
and thus daughters were considered an asset that brought wealth and
power to their families. Intermarriage within members of the same crest
(Raven, Wolf, etc.) was considered taboo. Table manners among the Haida
were such that it was considered rude to talk during mealtime, as was
eating quickly. Cameron includes a fascinating description of the traditional
long house, in which elements of the house are named after the human
body so that the extended Haida clans living communally together may
be said to have considered themselves as 'one body.' As well as a fascinating
geographer and historian, Cameron proves herself an able anthropologist.
26 feet to the
Charlottes proves a most varied and entertaining read, a book that
may be picked up at intervals and read with great satisfaction as some
new nugget of information is revealed.